How tall are they?

Interested in climbing a volcano?

While many people absolutely fear volcanoes and their destructive powers, others are strangely attracted to the bellowing behemoths and seek them out. If you're one of the latter, more adventurous souls, you'll be delighted to know that some of Costa Rica's volcanoes offer excellent opportunities for exploration.

The most popular "tourist" volcanoes have easy access to the site, but also have more obstacles to prevent freely hiking around. Irazú, Poás and Arenal all have good roads to the official parking areas. Trails and fences keep visitors in their place.

Other less visited volcanoes, like Turrialba, Barva and Rincón de la Vieja are more difficult to access, but offer greater opportunities for hiking unhampered by safety fences and "can't go there" exclamations.

The National Parks Service maintains a camping area at Rincón de la Vieja Volcano, and there is also a lodge near the park. There are marked trails, but the area is a wide expanse of hiking opportunities. Turrialba Volcano Lodge is only a couple kilometers from Turrialba Volcano and offers a guided horseback ride to the craters. If you've got the time, this can be a very interesting discovery jaunt. Barva Volcano is about an hour and a half from San José. This volcano has been inactive for at least four hundred years so its twelve eruptive sites are shrouded in forest and vegetation. A 4x4 will get you to within an hour's hike of the first crater lake. A regular car will have to be parked in Sacramento, two to three hours on foot from the lake.

Hiking these rugged, "undeveloped" volcanoes requires common sense and a bit more planning than following the herd down the trail. Listening to advice from people in the area is very beneficial. Whether you care to accept it or not, local wisdom can be valuable--if for no other reason, it may guide you to hidden spots you'd never find on your own.

If you seek more than the average vacation thrill and feel the lure of a steaming, rumbling volcano pulling at your soul, these options for volcano exploration should satisfy your needs.

Lodging suggestions

Although it's easy to take day trips from San José to several of the most popular volcanoes, it is often convenient to stay near the volcano and take extra time to explore a little more thoroughly the surrounding areas. Here are recommendations for interesting, comfortable places to stay while exploring our volcanoes.

Billed as "the only hotel with a volcano in its garden," this converted dairy barn, high on the slopes of Turrialba Volcano, is a rustic masterpiece. The view from the lodge is dominated by the towering volcano, the peak only about one kilometer away. The air is cool and fresh. The lodge is warm and friendly. The homey atmosphere and attentive staff make one feel comfortable, relaxed and very welcome.

Located only a two-hour horseback ride to the behemoth's craters, this lodge is the most convenient staging point for an adventurous jaunt into Turrialba's craters. The delicious home-style meals, cooked on a wood-burning stove and enjoyed in the cozy dining room looking out at the volcano, complete what is sure to be an unforgettable visit to this rugged area of the country. Several hiking tours of the surrounding area are available from the lodge. Telephone 273-4335; Fax 273-4335; Email volturri@sol.racsa.co.cr